Cabinet for HT-40 Head Only

Discussion - HT Venue amplifiers. Inspiration from Studio to Stage.
SydneyPC1
Posts: 24
Joined: Thu Dec 06, 2012 1:21 pm
Location: Sydney, Australia

Thu Dec 06, 2012 1:41 pm

I know. There is always one guy that wants to be difficult. Well I thought I would share my thoughts, plans anyway.

I have owned the HT5RC for over a year and love the little amp. It has inspired me to play more and now I need a larger amp for gigs. I am mid 40's and have a back problem from running a sound company for too long. Still mix bands and reherse with no drummer at low volumes. The 25kg HT-40 is a low weight for what it is but still too much compared to my 12kg HT-5 and a 100watt powered speaker from the emulated out. (my current set-up)

I would like to take the HT-40 amp out of its cab and use it in a head format with a single HTV112. I can get this built for about $150. The HT-50 is too wide to site on a single HTV112 and I will not be using quad boxes.

It also looks like the HT-50 could fit in a much smaller box than its current cabinet

Any suggestions or options would be helpful. Loving your products. Sydney PC-1. How about an HT-40 Head.

Thanks for listening

Sydney PC-1

PRS Custom 22
Jackson PC-1
Ibanez Artist 77
Blackstar HT5RC

sir riff a lot
Posts: 67
Joined: Thu Jul 01, 2010 12:00 am
Location: Perth , Australia

Wed Dec 12, 2012 1:55 am

+1 on a HT40 head.

I am a head and cab guy , I would buy one if Blackstar made it.

Hedgehog
Posts: 111
Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2012 1:00 am
Location: Dartmoor, England

Wed Dec 12, 2012 6:23 pm

Not directly answering your question I know, but...
Do you particularly need/want the extra features of the HT-40 over the HT-20? The HT-20 head is narrow enough to sit on a 112 cab and I reckon loud enough (I use mine, through a 2x12 admittedly, with a drummer). If you can do without the voicing switches and the switchable reverb an HT-20 would be an even lighter solution, and a bit cheaper as a bonus! It's not really much quieter than a 40W.

Or put a plank on top of the cab to support the head - or put the head on the floor next to the cab? ;)

I used to use a combo and one of the reasons I changed to a head and cab when I wanted a new amp was because the combo was really heavy and awkward to move around. I'm using an HT-20 and an Orange PPC212 open-back cab, and even though it's a 2x12 the individual parts are still easier to move than my old Marshall 1x12 combo.

Rob

SydneyPC1
Posts: 24
Joined: Thu Dec 06, 2012 1:21 pm
Location: Sydney, Australia

Fri Dec 14, 2012 5:06 am

Hi Rob

The HT20H would be great being in such a compact package. The HT40 is a different beast. It has the voicing switches which to me are important. The crunch option on the clean channel and the lower gain option on the distorted channel are my main choices. The HT20 is voiced at the higher gain on the distorted channel. I also think it would be a little underpowered for a good clean sound. The HT40 has everything I need and nothing I dont. I will have to seperate the two it is just a case of which way to do it.

Thanks
Paul

Hedgehog
Posts: 111
Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2012 1:00 am
Location: Dartmoor, England

Fri Dec 14, 2012 12:34 pm

Yes, if you want the voicing switches then the 20 won't help.

I'm not a high-gain player either - I put a 12AY7 valve in my drive channel preamp to tame it down a bit, and I can get it to sound how I want it, much less "modern". I haven't tried an HT-40 though, so I don't know how good the alternative voicing is (probably a good thing - I don't want any more kit!)

The 20's clean channel is VERY clean though - in fact it's almost impossible to get it to break up without using a boost even with humbuckers.

I split a Marshall combo into head and cab some time ago and I found the hardest part (and surprisingly expensive) was doing the tolex covering neatly. It never looked quite right (although functionally it was fine of course). If I did it again I'd be tempted just to use some nice-looking wood and varnish it rather than trying to make it look like an original head.

I don't know how much of a narrower case you could make for an HT-40 (or HT-50) chassis though - looking at my HT-20 head, the case is only a couple of inches wider than absolute minimum. I'd still go with putting the head (HT-50?) on the floor when you're using a small cab. Or perhaps put the cab on top of the head if floor space is tight.

Good luck :)

Rob

SydneyPC1
Posts: 24
Joined: Thu Dec 06, 2012 1:21 pm
Location: Sydney, Australia

Mon Dec 17, 2012 1:21 pm

Hi Rob

Interesting that you have already done the mod. Your Marshall Combo. Do you have photos. Its good to see I am not the only difficult customer on this board. LOL. You obviously have found what you want in a prepacked head which is what I would like t find also. Its just that after playing through the HT-40 in store I was very impressed with the sound.

I modded my HT-5RC with a Jan Phillips 12AT7 tube. The standard was too hot for me and several other tubes were not right either. This tube has a gain factor of 60% of the standard 12AX7 and sounds very good. The clean channel on the little HT-5 is clean but nothing great. Still a great buy at $550.

My current thoughts are to buy an HT-40 and see if I can live with the weight. If not have the box coverted to a head using the base as well. Buy one or two HTV112 and be done. If that gets me what I need at a weight I can handle myself I will be a happy customer.

Cheers
Paul

Hedgehog
Posts: 111
Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2012 1:00 am
Location: Dartmoor, England

Tue Dec 18, 2012 6:28 pm

I'm using a 12AY7 in my HT-20 drive channel, which is even lower gain than the AT (about 45% or something from memory). A few people on here have done that and reported good results - certainly suits my playing, and can still do more gain than I use (enough for Sabbath or Metallica anyway).

I think I've got some pics of my frankensteined Marshall somewhere - I'll dig them out. It was an AVT hybrid combo with solid state output stage, so no big power valves dangling down into the speaker box. This let me separate it into a skinny head and pretty normal looking speaker cab by basically sawing it in half below the amp chassis and adding a plywood base to the head and top to the cab. I just covered the new bits with matching tolex rather than going to the expense of recovering the whole thing. It looked OK as long as you didn't look to close! Like I said, if I did anything similar again I'd make a new head box out of nice wood and varnish it rather than messing about with tolex, which is expensive and a pain to get looking perfect on a DIY basis. With an amp like the Blackstar with big power valves you'd have to make a new box anyway, unless you sacrificed the whole combo to make the head box and just salvaged the speaker - you wouldn't get away with making a head and cab from the combo like I did with my Marshall.

My split Marshall can't have looked TOO bad because I eventually sold it as a head and cab, to two different people, and they were happy. And I got more than the combo would have been worth :)

Hedgehog
Posts: 111
Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2012 1:00 am
Location: Dartmoor, England

Tue Dec 18, 2012 10:08 pm

Here's a few pics of my frankenstein Marshall if you're interested. This approach wouldn't work so well on a combo with a valve power amp though, like I said earlier - too much height would be needed for the head and you wouldn't be able to make a cab as well without adding more wood (or building a head box from scratch). Worked quite well with this amp though :)
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Hedgehog
Posts: 111
Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2012 1:00 am
Location: Dartmoor, England

Tue Dec 18, 2012 10:08 pm

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GERRYGTR62
Posts: 17
Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2013 2:25 am
Location: Chula Vista

Tue Jan 08, 2013 3:17 am

the HT50 head is a little longer than the HTV112 cabinet, but then again, if you're making a cabinet for your HT40, just keep that in-mind

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